A food walk

On a food walk during Iftar, suchayan mandal was mesmerized by the aroma of the trinity ~ biryani, kebabs and phirni

Ramzan, which culminated last week, is recognised worldwide as the season of fast. Incidentally, it is also the season of good food. Evenings heady with the aroma of gulkand and the overpowering fragrance of kebabs set the tone in the lanes of Old Delhi. A number of delicacies are specially made for Ramzan and their aroma beckoned the faithful, who had been fasting the whole day. 
During the holy month just gone by, a food walk starting from Chawri Bazar Metro station till Jama Masjid made one realize the benefits of fasting throughout the day. From Old Matia Mahal road onwards, one could experience a food culture that is not only steeped in tradition but unique to this part of the city. Indeed, several closely guarded recipes are almost forgotten. 
Taking the spice route, Special Keema Samosa with chutney was available near the Jama Masjid. Rich flavours of garam masala and garlic well synchronised with the softness of the samosa. The 20-year-old Haji Mohammad Hussain outlet, situated on the left of Jama Masjid, is known for its fish and chicken fries.  
"To avoid the crowd I came before 7.30 pm as later on, it's too troublesome to order. What's best here are chicken and fish fries, which are dry and crisp," said Taufiq, a Delhi University student, who comes here thrice a week almost all the year round. "This is the time when you can relish these foods without much guilt ~ most of the year you think only about calories," he added.  
The chicken fries had the most takers. However, the cook refused to share the secret recipe. Following the crowds on the bylanes behind the masjid, one could zero-in on Dil Pasand Biryani, a favourite destination for foodies like Firdosh, a government employee by profession. "Chunks of fried meat are sauteed with long grain rice. This stall is also famous for beef biryani," he informed. 
Aslam Chicken Corner near Churi Walan gali serves the best butter chicken in Delhi, many of the outlet's customers contend. Roasted chicken is simmered in a butter-rich gravy though the humid weather may pose a serious challenge to the dish. But for foodies like Sandeep, who enjoys being here during Ramzan, this place was for him just a step away from heaven. "When you enter this gali you get the aroma of butter gravy," sighs Sandeep as he suggested that the best way to relish the butter chicken is to team it up with roomali roti.  
For the sweet tooth there was Khoya Samosa ~ samosa stuffed with khoya and dry fruits ~ a not-to-be-missed delicacy. Phirni was the other sweet dish quite popular in this area and almost all shops were equally good when it comes to tasting the best. 
Apart from the Walled City, there were plenty of places to take a gastronomic trip during Ramzan. Purani Dilli Restaurant at Zakir Nagar near Friends Colony was one such place to try Mutton Haleem. Mutton cooked in creamy gravy of lentils and flour was the best offering of the gastronomy pilgrimage during Ramzan. Haaji Noora at Bhaji Gali in Sadar Bazaar near Pulbangash was the best place to try Nihari, a rich stew of goat meat or beef that is cooked for 6-8 hours. "Mutton kebabs and mutton burra are best at Lazeez Darbar near Nizamuddin Railway station. The richness of the creamy gravy contributes to the tenderness of the burras," concluded Sandeep.